My month in Sri Lanka was coming to an end. It had been a journey through two circles — one geographical, the other human — gradually woven into the same story. It had all started unexpectedly in Galle. A brief encounter, a scrap of paper with names of places I had never heard of, and
Neverending Journey. One month through Sri Lanka Read More »
Leaving Gem River Edge was disorganised — or perhaps simply organised in Muna’s style. There was never really a departure time. It kept being moved forward, but everything remained perfectly calm, somehow in the flow. The Portuguese couple from the cooking class was also heading towards Ella, so we travelled together. From Ella to the
Roads Through the Highlands of Sri Lanka Read More »
CWC The day after we returned to Gem River Edge, Muna came up to my terrace for a chat. At some point, he picked up a few fallen leaves and began arranging them on the floor. It looked almost like play. He worked with his usual ease, but nothing was careless. Within minutes, the idea
Chilling Wild Child: The Life Behind the Idea Read More »
I wanted to see more of Sri Lanka’s East Coast. The handwritten note Rasika had given me in Galle was still with me, with several places he thought I should visit. Gem River Edge had been the first stop on his list. What was meant to be a brief stay had already stretched into several
He came with me. Sri Lanka’s East Coast Read More »
During my first days in Kataragama, I explored a few places on my own. One evening, I joined the crowds gathering around the large Buddhist stupa. People dressed in white moved quietly between flowers, candles, and offerings. As the sun began to set, monks walked slowly around the stupa, followed by long lines of devotees.
His Way of Sharing Read More »
Life above the trees at Gem River Edge On the morning of April 19, I was supposed to leave from Gem River Edge. The decision seemed perfectly reasonable. The room I had been staying in was small and slightly damp, and after several days at Gem River Edge, I felt it was time to continue
The Day I Didn’t Leave Read More »
A place in Kataragama that quietly changed the course of a journey Leaving Sri Lanka long before the expiration of the thirty-day visa turned out to be impossible. The place where I arrived after Tangalle and Tissamaharama gradually challenged the impression I had formed of the island. I came to Gem River Edge almost by
Beyond the Main Road: Arrival at Gem River Edge Read More »
Tangalle So the wave swept away what I had mistaken for connection to the world. Claudia barely noticed the wave. We had been sitting under the same shelter, less than a meter apart. By the time the water retreated, her belongings were untouched. Mine had disappeared into the ocean. My phone, still carrying what felt
I did not celebrate the European New Year this time. On December 31, 2024, I was in the mountains of Northern Vietnam, where time seemed to move according to another rhythm. Months later, without planning it, I found myself entering yet another calendar — the Sinhala and Tamil New Year in Sri Lanka. By then,
Sri Lanka Between Calendars. Sinhala New Year Read More »
Without Transition I arrived in Sri Lanka almost without transition. Just hours before, I was still in Rishikesh — inside a completely different rhythm of life. From there, a five-hour drive to Delhi, an early morning flight, and then, suddenly, the island. Everything happened quickly. Almost too quickly for the mind to follow. Something in
Galle, Sri Lanka —Where the Body Finally Rests Read More »
