Phu Quoc Island – A Controversial Place in South Vietnam?

Phu Quoc Island is often advertised as a tropical paradise, yet it greeted me with mixed emotions.

Phu Quoc, Vietnam’s largest island, is situated in the Gulf of Thailand, just 15 kilometers off the Cambodian coast. Known for its palm-lined beaches and national parks, the island spans over 570 square kilometres. Getting there is convenient, with a direct flight from Saigon that takes just under an hour, making it a popular escape for locals and tourists alike.

After a peaceful morning in Saigon, I boarded a plane and arrived on this southern Vietnamese island, renowned for its beaches and growing tourism scene. However, my initial impression wasn’t quite what I had expected.

The southern part of the island felt overcrowded and chaotic, heavily influenced by an influx of Russian tourism. Signs of abandonment were hard to miss—old resorts and hotels in a state of disrepair dotted the landscape, giving the area a sense of neglect. Streets and public spaces were often littered with trash, revealing a stark contrast to the idyllic images used in travel promotions. It became clear that Phu Quoc is a destination of contrasts, balancing pockets of beauty with visible signs of strain from over-tourism and rapid development.

The next day, I visited a small but fascinating museum dedicated to the island’s history. The Coi Nguon Museum, a privately-owned institution in Duong Dong, offers a fascinating glimpse into the history, culture, and natural heritage of Phu Quoc Island. Its diverse collection includes traditional pottery, fishing tools, ancient coins, and exhibits showcasing the island’s unique flora and fauna.

More importantly, the museum revealed Phu Quoc’s role in Vietnam’s struggle for independence, featuring the powerful words of the national hero Nguyen Trung Truc:
“Whenever the French pull up all grasses, Vietnam will have no Vietnamese to fight the French.”

This visit sparked deeper thoughts about modern forms of colonialism, not just in far-flung places but also in subtler ways closer to home. It also made me question my own snap judgments about the island. The beauty of long-term travel lies in moments like these—when slow exploration allows you to revisit and challenge first impressions.

A few days later, I moved to the quieter northern part of the island, checking into the Gold Coast Resort. This intimate retreat offered a completely different atmosphere, far removed from the bustling southern areas.

For €65 per night, I stayed in a charming bungalow with a private beach framed by palms. The warm sea, soft sand, and a menu of fresh juices and local dishes created the perfect escape. The clientele, mostly young French couples and families, added to the peaceful vibe.

Even the simplest moments—reading on the beach or enjoying a mild tropical day—reminded me of why I travel: to find serenity amid the chaos and embrace the contrasts that make each destination unique.

If you’re planning a visit to Phu Quoc Island, here are a few practical tips to make the most of your stay:

1. Prepare for Airport Challenges: Language barriers can make travel tricky. Be patient and use tools like translation apps to navigate communication gaps.
2. Visit the Museum: The island’s history museum is a must-see for cultural and historical context. Entry costs only 50,000 dong (€2).
3. Explore the North: If you’re seeking tranquility, head to the northern part of the island for serene beaches and quieter resorts.
4. Savor Local Cuisine: Don’t miss local seafood delights.
5. Embrace Slow Travel: Allow yourself time to adjust to the pace of the island. Phu Quoc reveals its charms gradually to those willing to look deeper.

Phu Quoc Island is a place of contrasts. It challenges perceptions with its mix of tourist chaos, serene retreats, modern development, and deep historical roots. It’s not the postcard-perfect paradise you might expect at first glance, but perhaps that’s its true charm.

As I prepared to leave the island for my next destination, Chau Doc in An Giang Province, Mekong Delta, I remember tranquil beaches, flavourful meal and a renewed appreciation for slow travel. Phu Quoc taught me that discovery lies just below the surface.